BANDS & CORDING
Types of Leather
All my leathers I carry are natural leathers. My leathers will vary in color depending with each purchase. This is especially the case with my natural leathers. The three basic leathers I currently carry:
Natural Leather has no sheen to it like my other leathers. It has a matte finish. These colors are often dark and have variances within the strand of dark and lights. Also being that is is a natural and not really a coated layer it may rub off some if the leather is to ever get wet. The natural leathers are softer and bend easier and do not have as much of a form to the cording as do with my other cording.
Solid Color Leathers are more of a Coated layer of color. These band are still soft but have more form to the leathers or a stiffness to the cording. Unlike my l natural leathers these are solid and uniform in color and do not have variance within a strand. Most of my solid leather colors are in my 2 mm size cording.
Metallic Color Leather are also a coated treated leather. These are still flexible and soft leathers but have the most form and stiffness to all the corded leathers. These also have a uniform color and do not have variances within a strand. Most of these leather are available in my 1.5 mm sized cording.
Suede ( currently have faux suede and some real suede avail but not currently in use of any of my creations. ) Suede is the soft underside of a hide also called split suede. It has no real coating and a lot like natural leather but with a fuzzy appearance rather than the smooth like my natural cording.
Note: that I have several colors avail and sizes as well. Please convo me if there is a particular color you are needing. I currently do not have all my colors posted as avail on my custom orders page but do hope to do so in the near future.
As with anything made from leather it should never be in contact with water. So make sure to remove before showering or in any case where the leather would be submerged in water. In cases where the leather bands do get wet, make sure to remove quickly and dry off with a towel and set out to air dry. I do not suggest placing near a heat source or drying with a hair dryer or blower. This could cause the leather dry out and crack and or peal. I would suggest in any time of the bracelet being submerged in water to then use a leather conditioner which can be applied even while leather is wet and then when dry.
Leather is one of the most durable materials that I use with my creations however do note with lots of use, wear does happen. Leather is not meant to last forever and will over time fray and and be worn out. However, if items are taken off and stored as directed there should be longevity for your jewelry pieces with lots of use over time.
Waxed Cotton Cording
Cotton cording holds knots well, does not crack or flake, and has an attractive surface finish. This is a very popular material in wear of jewelry pieces and gives a great casual, contemporary, every day look and feel. I have a large variety of colors that are available in my cotton cording. My most common size for these are my 1mm although there are some avail in .5mm and 2mm.
Waxed Cotton Care
There are many vibrant colors that these cords come in and although durable they are like leather and should not be submersed in water or stored in damp conditions. Cotton cording is not a forever material and will wear over time however if taken off and stored as directed it will help with the longevity of the piece.
Note all cording and bands I will be able to replace for any of my bracelets. I will be soon having a listing for you to be able to reorder new banding for any given piece.
Almost all metals will tarnish over time given the right conditions. Some a lot faster than others given the right conditions of oils on your body, moisture and air.
Pure Silver is very soft. Silver is actually too soft to wear as Jewelry. That's why most of the Silver you find on the market today is called "Sterling Silver". Sterling Silver is more durable than pure Silver because of one main reason. It's mixed with other alloys. Sterling Silver contains 92.5% Silver, and the other 7.5% is Copper. Copper makes the Silver stronger and more durable so it can be crafted and styled into beautiful Jewelry pieces.
That's why you'll normally find a karat stamp inside the Rings or Jewelry that says ".925" That means 92.5% Silver, which is what the Government says Silver needs to be, to be sold in the U.S.A. as "Silver".
No matter what, Pure or mixed, nothing stops Silver from tarnishing. When Silver is exposed to the air and atmosphere, it causes a chemical reaction that creates something called Silver Sulfate. That's what that lovely little black mark is on your finger. A Sulfate stain.
There really isn't much you can do about Silver tarnishing. It's just the nature of Silver. Silver's a metal that reacts to chemicals. Whether it be chemicals in the air, or chemicals touching it. Silver reacts!
Here's a list of things that Silver has a bad reaction with: Wool, Rubber Bands, Latex Gloves, Oils from your Hands and Fingers, Ammonia, Chlorinated Water, Carpet Padding, Air Pollution, Perfumes, Hair Sprays, and believe it or not, some foods can even make Silver tarnish. Foods like: Onions, Mayonnaise, Salad Dressing, Eggs and Salty Foods. (Put down those Chips!)
Sterling Silver Care
The best way to store your Silver Jewelry is in individually sealed poly bags or zip lock bags. Store it with those cute little Silica Gel Packs and it'll help remove any moisture from the air. It won't keep your Jewelry from tarnishing, but it will delay the process.
Cleaning your Silver Jewelry with warm water and drying it with a soft cloth after you wear it, will remove any oily residue and slow the process down as well.
Some people also advise storing your Jewelry with chalk just because it absorbs the toxins in the bag. Keeping your Jewelry in Tupperware or Rubbermaid Bins works great also. (Especially if you can seal them air-tight!)
The best medicine for preventing Silver from tarnishing, believe it or not...
Is to wear it!
It's true. Just normal wear and tear and friction of daily life will sometimes be enough to keep your Rings outer surface Bright and White! Fancy that! And if it starts to tarnish, what ever you do... Don't use Toothpaste to clean it with! The chemicals in Toothpaste are too harsh for Silver and it'll do more damage than good.
I'd recommend using a good Silver Polish or a soft Polishing Cloth made for Silver, or the best thing to do, is to take it in to a Jewelry Store twice a year and have them buff and clean your Jewelry.
Gold Plated Jewelry Tarnish
Wondering how to clean gold-plated jewelry? Cleaning gold-plated jewelry is just like cleaning silver or platinum jewelry. Even though gold-plated jewelry is only gold on the outside, it is still real gold. Dirt and oil can build up on gold-plated jewelry. Your skin naturally contains oil. When this oil mixes with the dirt in the air or on the ground, you can have nasty build up on your jewelry. It is easy to get your gold-plated jewelry clean again with a couple of household items. DO NOT USE THE FOLLOWING METHOD FOR STERLING SILVER AS IT IS NOTED ABOVE.
What you need to clean gold-plated jewelry (Any single product below will work you do not need all items) :
- Baking soda
- (Dry, soft cloth)
- Find toothpaste or baking soda. These two household products work wonders on gold-plated jewelry. They clean other things, so why not jewelry? Pick which one you like and the results will be the same.
- Put the product of your choice on a toothbrush. Gold-plated jewelry can have grooves that are difficult to clean. A toothbrush has bristles that solve this cleaning problem. Apply the toothpaste or baking soda to the toothbrush and scrub your gold-plated jewelry. You will see the toothbrush start to turn grey or black. This is the dirt and grime coming off the gold-plated jewelry, not the gold.
- Rinse off your gold-plated jewelry. Once you have scrubbed the gold, place it under clean water to rinse off the cleaning product. You will have to use the toothbrush to rinse the grooves completely.
- Tarnish on gold-plated jewelry needs more attention. For tarnishing on your jewelry you only need one product. Spray some WD-40 directly on the gold-plated jewelry and let it set for a few minutes. Use your finger to rub the spot clean. Rinse under clean water and you are done. This is a one-step process. The WD-40 pretty much cleans by itself.
- Shine the gold-plated jewelry. Take a dry, soft cloth and place your piece of gold-plated jewelry in it. Using your fingers, rub the piece of jewelry around in the cloth to buff any dull spots. This will remove any possible residue or water spots.
All Metal Jewelry Cleaning and Tarnishing
Do it yourself with some baking soda. Did you know that baking soda works great as a jewelry cleaner? It works well on all metals, even silver. Baking soda is not harsh enough to cause any damage to your turquoise stone or sterling silver either.
- Time to clean. Take your toothbrush in one hand and hold your jewelry with the other. Get the toothbrush wet and dip it in the baking soda. Using a circular motion, gently scrub sections at a time until the entire piece of silver is washed. When it comes to the turquoise stone, be even more gentle. Pay attention to grooves and cracks; dirt likes to settle in these areas.
- Time to rinse. Turn on the water. Hold your jewelry in one hand and place it under the water. With your other hand, rub the silver between your fingers until all the baking soda comes off. You may have to use the toothbrush very softly to get all of the baking soda from the grooves in the turquoise stone.
- Buff your silver and turquoise. Rub the piece of jewelry between your fingers with a soft rag. A baby diaper, T-shirt or a microfiber material would be best. Rougher fabrics will scratch your jewels. Now that your turquoise and silver jewelry is clean, watch it shine again!